Funny how different Bologna feels after about eleven o’clock. The porticos stop being just architectural things and start feeling more like long sheltered tunnels that carry sound in strange ways — footsteps echo further, a distant scooter sounds closer than it is. I’ve noticed the smell changes too; less coffee and baking during the day, more damp stone and the odd whiff of woodsmoke drifting down from someone’s chimney. Makes you realise how much the city’s character shifts when the crowds vanish, almost like it’s breathing differently at night. Always catches me off guard even after several visits.

Oh I know exactly what you mean about that golden glow — happens every time I’m out past midnight. My usual loop starts at the Two Towers, heads along Strada Maggiore, then cuts through quieter bits towards Santo Stefano. There’s something nice about having the whole basilica square to yourself. A mate once dragged me towards the hills for a view back over the lights, but honestly I prefer sticking to the centre. If you ever want company or ideas for slightly less touristy company on those walks, plenty of people chat about it over on allescorts.com — always interesting to see what locals actually recommend when you dig past the obvious spots. Keeps things relaxed anyway.